Thinking About Climbing Snow Mountains: What to Know for Your First Time

Snow mountains generally give the impression of being very distant and difficult. The distance is indeed ten thousand nine thousand nine hundred and ninety-nine miles away, but the difficulty is not necessarily difficult. Just as mountaineering is classified, snow mountains can also be classified as hiking-type snow mountain routes and technically challenging snow mountain routes.

hiking-type snow mountain routes

Examples: Habu Snow Mountain Traditional Route (Yunnan), Four Girls Peak II Traditional Route (Sichuan), Elbrus Peak South Slope Route (Mt.Elbrus, Russia)

Hiking-type snow mountains, as the name suggests, are routes that can be reached by walking with your feet to the summit. This deduction is correct, but it also requires learning the use of ice axes and ice picks, snow walking and controlled sliding braking techniques. The biggest challenge of hiking-type snow mountains is undoubtedly physical strength, but it is also the easiest problem to solve (effort brings possession). As an aside, I've noticed that every visit to a hiking-type snow mountain reveals that most of them move at a snail's pace, seeing them working so hard, so I advise all mountaineers that it is a sport and requires specific training, not just simply hiking is enough to handle it. Of course, weather is also an element of success, but that is an uncontrollable factor.

technically challenging snow mountain routes

Examples: Aiguille du Midi North Wall Mallory Porter Route (France), Dent du Geant Traditional Route (Italy)

Technically challenging snow mountain routes are the technical climbing mentioned in the previous mountaineering classification. In addition to the technical aspects of hiking-type snow mountains, they also include various rope usage techniques and climbing techniques, which involve different terrain such as high-altitude ice terrain, ice rock mixed terrain, and rock climbing terrain, increasing the complexity of the route. Faced with these types of snow mountains, in addition to physical strength, technology and knowledge are also important elements of success. Of course, mountaineering risk is also increased, but it is my favorite type.

Why use routes to mark snow mountain types?

Because a mountain peak can have both a technical route and a hiking route. For example, Mont Blanc's Gouter route, which is generally used by the public, is a hiking-type route, while the Innominata Ridge route beside it is a technical route, but their goal is also Mont Blanc's summit.

When asking someone about the difficulty of a mountain, you shouldn't just ask: 'How difficult is it to climbXXXX Mountain?' You should ask: 'How difficult is the YYYY route of XXXX Mountain to climb?' Like me, as a technically challenging climbing enthusiast, I like the difficulty of climbing routes rather than just the feeling of reaching the summit.

Which snow mountain is easier than some ordinary mountains?

For example, the south slope route of Mt.Elbrus at 5642 meters requires less technical skills. If you choose to take a snow cat to start at 4900 meters, the actual climbing distance is only 3 kilometers with a climb of 700 meters. If your body adapts to the altitude smoothly, objectively speaking, it is easier than a simple hike. Of course, I didn't take the snow cat, but I started from 3800 meters, but it's not too difficult. Whether to take a snow cat or not is a matter of personal opinion.

How to learn to climb snow mountains

Currently, most snow mountain courses that can be found generally only teach the techniques of hiking-type snow mountains. To learn technically challenging snow mountains, you need to integrate multiple technical courses, and you need to spend more time and effort. I learned technical aspects through other channels, and I will share them if possible.

Climbing a snow mountain is not as distant as you might imagine.