Northern Spring Table Refreshment

Sept. 9, 2025, 11:36 a.m. Essays

spring onion

a fresh and clean table on a northern spring day

In the long winter of northern China, people almost forgot the expectation of spring.

By chance, by turning, an encounter took place. ‘Look, look, the green buds of scallions are sprouting!’ That was surprise, that was also delight. Winter was over, and spring had finally arrived.

The color of scallions is the most beautiful color I have ever seen. That shade of green is the result of a whole winter’s brewing, blown by the spring wind, scallions were the first to awaken. That shade of green is the scallion of northern farmers’ vegetable gardens. That shade of green is between light green and dark green, just right. That shade of green is the color of spring.

Next, scallions will contribute northern spring to the table. Scallions are dug out, and a hoe is used to dig them up to a sufficient depth, otherwise they are easily broken. Fortunately, the soil in the spring garden is soft. After digging up the scallions, the roots are attached to wet soil. The taste of scallions mixes with the taste of soil, creating the taste of spring.

a fresh and clean table on a northern spring day

Scallions and green onions are a perfect match. When we were young, we could only eat white flour buns a few times a year, and we mostly ate corn flour and sorghum flour buns. Whether it was corn flour or sorghum flour, to make pancakes, you needed to add hot water. Mother used a large iron pot from the countryside to heat up a large amount of water. On one hand, she held a gourd with hot water, and on the other hand, she held a pair of chopsticks. As she slowly poured hot water into a flour bowl, she stirred with chopsticks. After stirring, she left it to cool down, and then used her hands to form a dough. Then she formed a dough into small pieces, and formed them into round shapes. It is important to note that corn flour does not have as much gluten as white flour, so you don’t need to use a rolling pin, you just need to use your hands to pat the dough into a thin sheet, once it’s thin, you put it on the stove to bake.

The father usually burns the fire and the mother heats the dough. The father finds a piece of wood with broken leaves, and adds firewood to the stove, and also stands up straight to watch the large iron pot, as the mother turns the pancake with a spatula, the father skillfully controls the fire.

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Whenever parents make pancakes, their conversations are vivid and interesting. Mother anxiously says, ‘What are you doing? You’re going to burn it!’ Father is unwilling to accept it. ‘You need to turn it faster, why are you blaming me for burning it?’ Mother commands, ‘The fire needs to be bigger.’ Father is unwilling to accept it. ‘I know, I’ve been burning the fire for more than ten years.’ Mother smiles, ‘At this time, the fire is quite good.’ Father proudly says, ‘I’ve been burning the fire for more than ten years.’

We children were asked to dig scallions and pick them off. We also took a small bowl of sauce from the jar.

Scallions, sauce, and pancakes are all on the table, and we eat a lot of pancakes.

a fresh and clean table on a northern spring day

In early spring, northern China rarely had green vegetables. The white cabbage and radishes stored in winter were all eaten, and the fermented sauerkraut was almost finished.

Nature extends its generous heart to northern people. So, when you look up, you will find that the leaves of the elm tree have already blossomed and borne large, tender fruits. The elm fruits in spring are called elm money. Don’t say that they are really similar to copper money, each one is just like copper money.

The old elm tree is so old that no one knows how many years it has been. The old elm tree is too big, standing under the elm tree, you can reach the elm money, but it is limited. Especially for us children, we need to jump and jump to reach a branch. With one hand holding tight, and with the other hand pulling hard, a bunch of elm money would enter our mouths. Fresh and delicate, fragrant and delicious.

a fresh and clean table on a northern spring day

The father cuts off branches of the elm tree with an axe and puts them on the elm tree, and mother uses her hands to pick elm money from the branches and put them into the basket. Next, we need a sieve to sieve out the broken stems and small bugs from elm money.

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There are many ways to eat elm money, you can steam sticky rice with it, you can make a dumpling soup, you can make elm money millet porridge, you can stir-fry it with eggs, you can also drink elm money soup.

Mother often makes elm money dumplings. Elm money dumplings, first boil water, add dough balls, add the appropriate amount of salt, add a few drops of vegetable oil, when the dumplings are almost finished, add elm money. Immediately, the fragrance of elm money fills the air, fresh and fragrant. Tender elm money dumplings are brought to the mouth, smooth and delicious. Grandma especially likes it, saying it’s easy to digest.

The wrinkles of elm money are very smooth. The elm money dumplings are boiled, add dough balls, add appropriate amount of salt, add a few drops of vegetable oil, when the dumplings are almost finished, add elm money. Immediately, the fragrance of elm money fills the air, fresh and fragrant. Tender elm money dumplings are brought to the mouth, smooth and delicious.

The wrinkles of elm money are very smooth. The elm money dumplings are boiled, add dough balls, add appropriate amount of salt, add a few drops of vegetable oil, when the dumplings are almost finished, add elm money. Immediately, the fragrance of elm money fills the air, fresh and fragrant. Tender elm money dumplings are brought to the mouth, smooth and delicious.