Jilin: A Memory in a Bowl of Jian Fan
Jilin: A Memory in a Bowl of Jian Fan
If you are a foreigner and visiting Jilin for the first time, many people will tell you that Jilin City's specialty snacks are jian fan. Jian fan is truly a signature snack of Jilin City, and it's not found anywhere else. There are two famous jian fan shops in Jilin City: Henan Street Old Lady Jian Fan and Wang Wei Jian Fan. However, the jian fan I'm talking about today is Sichuan Road Jian Fan Snack Shop, its name is as down-to-earth as the humble Sweep-the-Sky from *The Campaigns of Heaven and Earth*.
This small shop is located at the intersection of Sichuan Road and Tongjiang Street. I came to Jilin City in 1999, and a senior colleague of mine used to bring me a bowl of jian fan whenever I passed by. One day, out of curiosity, I tried it myself, and I've been addicted to the taste ever since, now 20 years later. The shop is a small flat-roofed house, not very large, with about six small tables, and two middle-aged aunties have been running it for 20 years. The building hasn't changed much, just a simple renovation, but the layout hasn't. The shop is about 30 square meters, with a self-service water fountain in the middle, and the kitchen and dining area are in the same room.
A bowl of jian fan costs 6 yuan, and a bun costs 1 yuan. Their jian fan soup is unique; the soup is made with bones or meat, and the jian fan is cooked over just the right heat until it's golden brown. When served, it's poured over a bowl of hot soup, with sesame paste, chili oil, cilantro, and minced garlic. The jian fan is cooked until golden and slightly chewy; when you bite into it, the outside is firm and the inside is tender. Paired with sesame paste and meat broth, the spiciness of the chili and the warmth of the meat broth make you sweat profusely, with tears in your eyes. It's a truly unforgettable flavor. If you come to Jilin, you might as well have a bowl of jian fan – it feels like you haven't truly come to Jilin if you don't.
I usually order an extra bun too, a savory meat bun for 1 yuan each. The sauce flavor is delicious. Some people also add a tea egg. Jian fan and buns – 20 years of unchanged flavors, rarely seen in Jilin City. Before, my old unit was nearby, and I would often go there to eat. After the unit moved, I still drove there twice or three times a year. Sometimes, I would run into former colleagues.
Recently, real estate development has been booming in Jilin City, and many old buildings have been demolished to make way for new skyscrapers. Steel and concrete are gradually replacing old buildings. Jilin City's traditional flavors are fading as people come and go. Only a few buildings remain, recording the joys and sorrows of the people of Jilin.
Jilin City is also becoming an increasingly aging city, with many young people moving out to other cities. The older residents are remaining, accompanying this city.
The small shop is like a bustling local market, with people of all kinds stopping by. A hot bowl of jian fan and two savory meat buns can give passersby a ten-or-eight-yuan experience, allowing them to continue on to their next destination.
Recently, a headline topic launched by Douyin featured Jilin's signature dish, and I believe jilin jian fan represents a signature snack of Jilin. Life is like a bowl of jian fan—only through rigorous hardship can we truly appreciate the fragrant aroma. Sometimes, a fondness for a particular food is not just about indulging in a delicious meal, but also about experiencing a memory.
