The Realm of a Food Lover: Su Dongpo's Poem and the Origin of Dongpo Pork
Dongpo pork is a traditional famous dish from the Jiangnan region, mainly made with pork. The dish emphasizes thin skin, tender meat, bright color, rich flavor and thick sauce, and is not crispy but not greasy. Dongpo pork has color, fragrance, taste and flavor all complete, which is deeply loved by people and is one of the 'main courses' to be served at banquets. Why is it called 'Dongpo pork'? Because it is related to Su Dongpo, a famous Song Dynasty writer.
Su Dongpo was not only a political, literary, calligraphy and painting master during the Song Dynasty, but also a famous food connoisseur. He could go to the court, and he could go to the kitchen. He was simply an idol for countless young women. However, Su Dongpo did not pursue flamboyant and charming, but rather straight advice and care for the country and the people.
In 1077, Su Dongpo was appointed as the magistrate of Xuzhou. That autumn, the Yellow River burst its banks, and Su Dongpo personally led officials and common people to the frontline of the flood control. After more than 70 days of effort, he finally defeated the flood. In the following spring, Su Shi also led people to consolidate the river embankment to prevent floods. The local people highly praised him and called the repaired river embankment 'Su Causeway', and they slaughtered pigs and sheep to thank the government. Su Dongpo refused to accept it, and asked his family to process and present the meat to the people of Xuzhou. The people called it 'returned gift meat'.
Su Dongpo
Because Su Dongpo's straight advice brought about his rise and fall in his career. In 1080, Su Dongpo was demoted to the Deputy Commander of the Yellow River Detachment due to the 'Wutaishi Incident'. He did not give up because of this, and in his spare time, he often gathered a few friends to compose poems and write fu, and after a good drink and a full meal, he wrote 'Ode to Pork' to praise this dish.
'Clean the pot thoroughly, add a little water, put some firewood and weeds on the fire, and simmer over a small fire. Do not rush, let it cook slowly, when it is cooked, it will be delicious. There is such good pork in Huangzhou, its price is cheap like the soil. The wealthy people do not want to eat it, the poor people do not know how to cook it. In the morning, I ate two bowls, I ate enough, you (referring to the wealthy people) don't laugh at me.'
Song Zhezong (reigned from 1085 to 1100), after ascending the throne, appointed Su Dongpo as the Imperial Academy Scholar, the Vice Academy Scholar, and the Minister of Rites. In 1089, Su Dongpo was appointed as the Magistrate of Hangzhou.
In 1090, during the fifth and sixth months of the lunar calendar, continuous heavy rain caused the river to flood and a large area of farmland was flooded. Su Shi led the people to build dykes and canals, and because of Su Shi's competent measures, the local people overcame the difficulties. Later, he organized workers to dredge West Lake, build dykes and bridges, and West Lake was completely renovated.
The old people of Zhejiang were very grateful to this 'father official'. They heard that he liked to eat pork in Xuzhou and Huangzhou, so they came to celebrate the New Year and brought pigs on carts and wine to celebrate with him. Su Shi didn't refuse, and he asked the people to help cook pork. After it was finished, he gave it to the workers who dredged West Lake to eat. After eating, everyone praised and called this dish 'Dongpo pork'.
Hangzhou West Lake
In addition to 'Dongpo pork', there is also 'Dongpo tofu', 'Dongpo cake' and 'Dongpo congee', and dishes named after 'Dongpo' show people's love and praise for Su Dongpo.
References:
'Bamboo Ridge Poetry Talks'
