Cycling Xinjiang: Bought a Watermelon by the Roadside, But the Vendor Refused to Cut It for Us
In August and September of 2019, we embarked on our long-awaited cycling journey to Xinjiang, and in this unfamiliar yet captivating land, we first conquered the Dedalo-Kunlun adventure across the Tian Shan Mountains. Following that, we ventured into a thrilling journey traversing the Taklamakan Desert. Finally, we cycled along the 315 National Highway from Minfeng all the way to the foot of the Kunlun Mountains in Yecheng.
Over a month, we used our persistent exploration and adventurous spirit to conquer nearly 2000 kilometers of Xinjiang's spectacularly magnificent and breathtaking landscapes – almost every terrain and landform, excluding the ocean, that we encountered. We also experienced the exotic culture of the Silk Road's 36 Western Regions, and naturally, we encountered a myriad of interesting and unforgettable experiences, forging a smooth journey through diverse cultures and customs.
While cycling through remote areas of Bortala County in Xinjiang, we encountered a particular situation. Bortala County is located at the edge of the Taklamakan Desert, north of the Kunlun Mountains, characterized by a typical desert climate of long droughts and infrequent rainfall. During this cycling segment, besides scattered oases and villages, most of the roads were barren desert and, making water and food supplies the biggest challenge for our cycling trip.
Fortunately, desert oases villages were often fertile windbreaks with high-yielding fruits. Watermelons and cantaloupes, rich in water and refreshing, were readily available in the villages, typically sold for just a few cents per kilogram. Imagine the joy of suddenly seeing a pile of watermelons resembling mountains when you're parched and exhausted on your bike – you'd naturally want to slice them open and devour them!
However, reality was far more surprising. We spent 6 yuan on a nearly 10-kilogram watermelon. Initially, we were still basking in the delight of finding such cheap and large watermelons in Xinjiang, but our hospitable boss lady suddenly asked us to take the watermelon away. We had intended to buy a watermelon and solve our thirst and heat issues, but the boss lady, having just finished her business, turned against us. We repeatedly asked her to at least cut the watermelon for us to carry, as we couldn't conveniently transport it on our bicycles. But she firmly told us, 'I don't have a knife.' She then explained that she couldn't display a knife in front of outsiders, fearing it.
Initially, we thought the boss lady was just a little timid, perhaps afraid of us outsiders. After all, there were significant differences in language and appearance. However, upon careful reflection, this was her territory and her home, and there was no reason for her to be afraid.
These experiences were some of the most interesting parts of our cycling adventure in Xinjiang. Welcome to continue following us.
