Seeking Authentic Tourism: Explore the Original Zhenze Ancient Lane, From Hongqiao Lane to Sijian Lane
Numerous ancient towns near Suzhou, Jiangnan, are scattered like stars. They are essentially small bridges, flowing waters, and local residences, with bluestone and tiled roofs, along with gentle conversations, offering a unique charm. While many Jiangnan towns exist, such as Tongli, Wuzhen, and Zhouzhuang, none are not picturesque, and their tourism facilities are quite mature. However, it’s not easy to find ancient towns that haven’t been excessively developed. Compared to them, Zhenze Ancient Town is relatively worth visiting.
Zhenze Ancient Town is located at the southwestern end of Wu Jiang District, Suzhou, across the Dingtang River. The town originally had three main buildings: Ci Yun Lan Temple in the east, Didi Bridge in the middle, and Puji Temple in the west (both of which have since been destroyed). These two temples and the bridge were built between the Song Yuanfeng to Xiamchun (1078-1274). The Qing Dynasty's ‘Zhenze Town Chronicle’ described them as ‘five miles long east to west,’ forming the embryonic stage of one river and two streets. In the late 1980s, to widen the town’s traffic channels, the middle section of the old town district was renovated, removing shops along the Dingtang River and constructing a narrow Dingtang River. Repeated construction projects transformed a large area of Dingtang River’s coastline, eliminating the thousand-year-old town’s ancient landscape. Fortunately, the section of Dingtang River from Yu Ji Bridge to Xieqiao remains untouched by autumn flooding, and the Ming Tower and Rainbow Bridge still reflect in the shimmering water. However, the town’s traditional tourist routes, such as Bao Ta Jie, are not visited.
If you want to savor the old times or take a quiet, solitary stroll, Zhenze Ancient Town’s scenery is suitable for browsing. Filled with a slow-paced lifestyle, the small alleyways can be seen old people drinking tea, playing chess, and chatting, and the women washing clothes by the river, all are traditional scenes of life.
The ancient Rainbow Bridge is located in the northwest of the town, with a small bridge and flowing water, which is beautiful. Historians and writers left beautiful poems. In the Qing Dynasty, Ni Shi Meng wrote in ‘Rainbow Bridge Evening View’: ‘The temple surrounds the remnant cloud and the Ming Tower, and the waves float the new moon and the Rainbow Bridge.’ This gave birth to ‘Rainbow Bridge Evening View’. The most amazing thing is that every Mid-Autumn Festival night, walking on the Rainbow Bridge, you can see the reflection of the Ci Yun Temple Tower suspended in the bridge’s water tunnel. For 365 days a year, there is only one night with this spectacle, which is comparable to Hangzhou’s ‘Three Lotus Pools’ and Suzhou’s ‘Stone Lake Lunar Reflection’. In 1935, the Rainbow Bridge moved to its current location due to the construction of the Dingtang River turn. However, the evolution of Rainbow Bridge needs to be investigated through its history.
By the way, my friend, a writer, took photos at the site of the former Inspection Office (Zhenze Ancient Town No. 10) about a year and a half ago, and discovered that the exquisite wooden carved door frames were cut by residents and installed outdoor units for air conditioners. How much could they change if they didn't tell the residents that the wooden door frames hadn't been destroyed and replaced with outdoor air conditioning units?
If you want to savor the old times or take a quiet, solitary stroll, Zhenze Ancient Town’s scenery is suitable for browsing. Filled with a slow-paced lifestyle, the small alleyways can be seen old people drinking tea, playing chess, and chatting, and the women washing clothes by the river, all are traditional scenes of life.
